Wednesday, January 28, 2009

dog adoption application

On the Wings of Love Boxer & Parrot rescue
aka: Feathered Friends Castle

Successful Placements and Adoptions
we no longer accept personal checks

click here to Email us


BOXER ADOPTION APPLICATION
DATE: ____________

Name of Dog or Breed of dog you are interested in _________

YOUR NAME ___________________________________

Physical home address: _ _________________________________

CITY: ________________

STATE: _____Zip _____________

PHONE NUMBER: H- ___ ________ C-_______________
Email ___________________


WHERE DO YOU LIVE? (PLEASE CIRCLE ONE)
HOUSE
CONDO/APT
MOBILE HOME
STUDENT OR MILITARY HOUSING

HOW LONG HAVE YOU LIVED AT YOUR PRESENT ADDRESS? _ __________

DO YOU OWN YOUR HOME? Y/N
(IF YES, PLEASE PROVIDE PROOF OF OWNERSHIP: property tax bill, mortgage receipt)

DO YOU RENT? Y/N
IF YOU RENT: LANDLORD'S NAME _______________________
LANDLORD'S PHONE NUMBER ___________________

ARE YOU PLANNING ON MOVING WITHIN THE NEXT 6 MONTHS? Y/N
IF YES, WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR YOUR COMPANION ANIMAL IF YOU ARE MOVING?
_____________ ________________

IF YOU DECIDE TO MOVE IN THE FUTURE, WHAT WILL YOU DO WITH YOUR COMPANION ANIMAL? _____________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________

WHAT WILL YOU DO WITH YOUR COMPANION ANIMAL IF YOU GO ON VACATION?
_____________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________

WHERE WILL YOUR COMPANION ANIMAL SLEEP?
_____________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________

HOW MANY HOURS A DAY WILL YOUR COMPANION ANIMAL BE ALONE? ___ __________

Your EMPLOYER ________________________________
Partner or Spouse’s employer____________

Your OCCUPATION ______________________________
Partner or spouse’s occupation_______________


CAN YOU BE CONTACTED AT YOUR PLACE OF WORK? Y/N

IF YES, your WORK PHONE #: __________

Partner’s work number _____________________

HOW MANY ADULTS IN YOUR HOME? _________
List their names and ages please.

ARE THERE CHILDREN IN YOUR HOME? Y/N
IF YES, WHAT ARE THEIR AGES? _____ ___________________

ARE ALL MEMBERS OF YOUR HOUSEHOLD AWARE OF YOUR PLANS TO ADOPT AN ANIMAL? Y/N

Do all members of your household want you to adopt an animal?

ARE ANY MEMBERS OF YOUR HOUSEHOLD ALLERGIC TO ANIMALS? Y/N

WHO WILL BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE ANIMAL? ____ ________________

DO YOU HAVE CATS? _______________name of cat______________
IF YES, ARE CATS KEPT STRICTLY INDOORS? Y/N
ARE CATS DECLAWED? Y/N

DO YOU HAVE DOGS?__________________ names of dogs______________

What other animals do you have ? ________________

ARE ALL ANIMALS IN YOUR HOUSEHOLD SPAYED/NEUTERED? Y/N

NAME OF VETERINARIAN ___ ______________________
Address of Veterinarian__________________________
PHONE NUMBER ____________________________

IF NO COMPANION ANIMALS AT THIS TIME, HAVE YOU HAD ANY IN THE LAST 5 YEARS? Y/N
IF YES, WHAT HAPPENED TO THEM?________________________


REFERENCES: (no relatives please)

NAME:____________________
PHONE NUMBER:________________

NAME:__________________
PHONE NUMBER:________________

NAME:________________
PHONE NUMBER:__________________

Is SOMEONE AT HOME DURING THE DAYTIME? Y/N

How do you plan on exercising your dog?___________

What accommodations will you provide for the dogs sleeping?____________

What type of toileting procedure do you plan to use for dog to eliminate? (fenced yard, walk on leash, loose outside, cable tie out, chain to a tree)________________________details please.

NEIGHBORHOOD: Urban / Suburban / Rural

O I do understand there is an non refundable Adoption Donation
O I do understand the dog will be licensed and vetted as needed
O I will allow a representative of FFCR to Visit my home
O I do agree to contact FFCR if I can no longer keep the dog
>> I heard of FFCR by means of O Internet O Shelter O Poster O Friend O Petco O Other
Other (Please explain): ______________________
I represent that the information that I have provided on this form is the truth to the best of my knowledge and belief, and hereby give my permission for you to use any of the above information to confirm that all information provided is the truth. This means you give us your permission to call references and that you allow us to contact your vet and that you hereby give consent for your vet to release the information in your current/past pet's health files to us.
Print your name here: ____________________________________________

Sign your name here: _______________________

Print name of your spouse or partner here: _______________

Signature of spouse here: __________________________________


-adoption donation/deposit required with submission of application-
usually 50% of the adoption fee, then at pickup of dog the additional 50% will be paid in cash.
fees vary with age and type of dog approved for.

PLEASE NOTE: We are no longer accepting personal checks. Deposits payable with money order bought at US Post Office (federally issued and traceable).
Remaining balance due at pickup of your new best friend- is to be made in CASH only



Thursday, October 9, 2008

boxer & parrot adoption appl, bird surrender appl, parrot education articles, FREE BIRD?

Welcome to Boxer & Parrot rescue
aka: Feathered Friends Castle

We Put Boxers and Parrots First

This is not the traditional "rescue/ humane society / warehouse for unwanted boxers or birds". We are Boxer/avian savvy - boxer/parrot loving volunteers who bring the unwanted boxers and parrots into their private homes for care while they are rehabilitated and are prepared to be socially, emotionally and physically ready for forever homes. This works well for all concerned, saves money on bldg rental & utilities as well as the dogs/birds get more exposure to family life and therefore they are prepared to live the family life and enjoy the human dog/parrot interactions in their adoptive forever homes.

Pets surrendered to us live with 'foster families' while they are socialized (many are not used to handling and must be trained to accept handling and human interaction), if needed they are also treated for any health issues. All incoming animals are quarantined for a min of 45 days prior to admittance into the "main comunity" dog/bird living area in their foster homes. This is to insure biosecurity/health of all birds and dogs.

_________________________

We maintain a closed Rehab:

Under no circumstances are adoption applicants permitted admittance to our Boxer or Parrot rescue homes & aviaries.

This is for the privacy and saftey of our children and families
and for the prevention of disease introduction,
disturbance of any hens on eggs, or the possibility of theft.

Absolutely No Exceptions.

Once your boxer or parrot adoption is approved and secured
You will be responsable to pick up your parrot or boxer
here in southern vermont, at a public place,
close to the pets current foster family.

Foster Families do not deliver dogs/ birds, nor do they meet anyone 1/2 way et...

This is for the health & safety of all concerned.

thank you

Please proceed scrolling down to our III part adoption application.


Subject: ADOPTION APPLICATION PART I
Time: 12:57:19 PM EST
Author: featheredcastle


Parrot Adoption Questionnaire
Part I


Your Name: _______________________



Partner’s Name__________________________________



Have you discussed adopting a parrot with your partner and all family members?_______________________



Your Phone: _____________________



Cell: __________________________



Address: -----------------------------------



City: State: ZIP: ______________________________



E-mail: --------------------------------------

1. Do you own your own home? Rent _________________

2. How many people in your household? Ages: ________________________

3. Does anyone smoke? Yes___________ No ___________________

4. Do you have/use any non stick cookware (Teflon type)?________________

5. Do you use any Teflon (non stick) appliances? (such as waffle irons, counter top grillers et)__YES_________ NO____________

6. please list your non- stick appliances_______________ _____________ _________

7. Have you ever had a parrot before?

8. Yes _______________No_______ (Quantity and type)

9. How many currently?: ___________________________________

10. Species: ________________________________________________

11. If you no longer have, why? ___________________________________________________________

12. Do you have other pets? Yes__________________ No____________________________

13. If yes, what kind(s): __________________________________________________________



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Saturday, October 13, 2007
Subject: ADOPTION APPLICATION PART II
Time: 12:55:48 PM EDT
Author: featheredcastle


ADOPTION APPLICATION PART II

14. Primary Veterinarian list name , address and phone #’s:________________________

15. Type of parrot desired: ________________________________

16. Is age or sex of a parrot important? Yes_________ No_________

17. Are you willing to take a parrot with behavioral problems?

· Yes _______No_________

18. If yes, what types of problems are you prepared to deal with? ___________ _

19. Have you ever had a bird get lost outside? Yes ____ No_____

20. Do you have someone to care for your birds, if you cannot?

· Yes ____No _____

· If yes, list care givers Name address : _________ Phone: __________ ____

21. If this person is unavailable then what would your alternate plan be? ___________________________

22. What type of caging does the parrot you want require? ______________________

23. Do you clip your bird’s wings?

· Yes ________________No_______________

24. What type of diet would you feed your parrot? ______________________ _______

25. How often should you change the liner or bedding in the tray? _________________________

26. How many times a week should the cage be cleaned? _______________________

27. How many hours a day would the parrot be left alone?_________________________

28. How many hours a day would the parrot be caged? __________________________

29. How many hours a day would the parrot have freedom? _______________________

30. Where in your home would the parrot’s cage be kept? _____________________________

· describe this room and other use of room (I.e. are other pets kept there, is it a living room, dining room et)

31. What kind of toy(s) will be provided? _______________________________

32. Are you a member of a local parrot club or organization?____________________________

33. Do you subscribe to any parroting magazines? list names of mags_____________________________________

34. Are you open to further parroting education? _____________________________________________________

CONTINUE TO PART III





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Thursday, October 11, 2007
Subject: APPLICATION PART III (CONCLUSION) ; ARTICLE FREE ADOPTION ?
Time: 9:40:58 AM EDT
Author: featheredcastle


ADOPTION APPLICATION PART III

If you are approved to adopt a bird from us, the adoption donation is to be paid in 2 payments with the first payment being the mailed-in as the deposit to reserve bird for you,

Then remaining amt. is to be cash payment only (in full) at the time the bird is picked up. (Depending on price of bird your deposit amount will vary)

It is customary for pickup appointment to be within 7 days of our receipt of your deposit.

If you are not able to pickup your parrot within this 7 day time Please make this clear BEFORE you send a deposit So that an agreeable pickup appointment can be set that works for all concerned.

Failure to keep your agreed pickup appointment will result in forfeiture of adoption and any deposit sent.

(If an emergency should occur PLEASE Notify us before your appointment so we are not waiting for you needlessly)

Suggested donation ranges: Budgies $50, Lovebird/Cockatiel/Parrotlet $100-175, Medium Parrot (Ring neck, Conure, Quaker, etc.) $200-350, Large Parrot (Amazon, Cockatoo, Macaw) $450-1500.

This is a non-refundable donation.

I understand that filling out this questionnaire does not guarantee that I will be able to adopt a parrot from feathered friend’s sanctuary.

Each adoption is at the discretion of the adoption committee, which strives to place a particular parrot with the most suitable home, regardless of previous applications.

on the wings of love parrot rescue does not have a first come, first serve policy. Our policy is to put PARROT’S FIRST! We seek the best home, not the first home for our bird placements.



______________________________________________

Applicant Signature /Date



Please fill out this III PART APLICATION completely and cut/paste it in an email to us for review.

We will contact you with any questions and if approved to discuss possible birds for you.
applications with missing replies/incomplete areas will not be cosidered- Please

-Please, check your application over and make sure each question is thoroughly answered.

  • We reserve the right to inspect your home, call your vet, refrences and landlord in effort to obtain an informed decision regarding your application/adoption approval.
  • We will not place birds with anyone who doesn’t fill out this form completely.
Thank you.


_______________________________________


WHY FREE IS NOT IN THE BEST INTEREST of THE BIRD:

I have been raising and showing animals for almost my entire lifetime, this of course being the softie I am for them, means I have also taken in the unwanted, neglected, abandoned, abused and mistreated animals (birds included).

It is my experience that it costs me way more money on these "rescue" animals than my own clutches, nests, kits, pups what have you that are selectively raised here by me.

also the re-socialization, house breaking (things broken in house in process) takes considerable time and patience and more money to repair and replace what is chewed, stained, damaged, et... this has included rewiring of appliances, broken furniture and nick nacks et... costly at times- but my love and desire to see the animals get a fresh start without the bad effects of their original treatment continuing to make them 'hard to deal with in a pet re-homing situation'.

I take them to the vet, for an evaluation , even if nothing "seems to me" to be wrong. they get shots, and other required medicine and recommendations for what will get them into the best physical and mental , and social state...

we get the best food for them that I can locate in new England, even have had it shipped here from other states outside my area when needed for special needs birds and other pets(vegetarian dog food for dog with allergies et...)

I am not a 501 non profit, im just a gal who has loved the unconditional trusting love given me by god's creatures...

I sell things out of my home when i need money for these guys... I will do without items I need for myself to provide for them first.

AND THEN I PUT AN AD ON A LIST THAT I HAVE A CRITTER NEEDING TO BE REHOMED AFTER SOMETIMES A YEAR HERE WORKIN HARD GETTING BIRD TO NOT BITE , POOP ALL OVER, STOP FEATHER PLUCKING, GETTING IT ON A HEALTHY DIET AND TEACHING IT TO STOP TERRORIZING PEOPLE AND OTHER CREATURES and some yo -yo with no clue who WANTS IT FREE!!!!!

TO ME that is not only insulting for my work rehabilitating this animal and getting it to stop featherplucking, skin mutilating, peeing when nervous, jumping out of its skin or shaking like a leaf around new things or noises, trips to vet, et....

but it is a red flag that this person is totaly clueless as to the dedication and care and commitment that taking in a second hand animal (or any animal) requires.

So right then and there when they ask me for 'free' animal-- I know they are not qualified or deserving of this special animal that has worked so hard with me to get its psyche rewired to trust and love again, and get its body healed.--

so What do I look for when I'm screening potential adopters for my brave little rehab pets?

I look for someone who has had and loved a puppy from weaning or anytime after until it dies of old age while they lay on floor with it stroking its old head and telling it how much it is loved until it finally surrenders its last breath and the person who has loved this dog or pet for 10-20 or whatever years up till then finally lets themselves cry, knowing they will never wake up to the wonderful dog breath in their face happy to see their humans eyes open as their tail wags , or they purr or start talking up a storm as you enter the room where they are perched in their cage waiting to share their day with you as they have done all those days for years...

I want a person who knows the sacrifice of loving a creature totally depending on them for their every need and notion, not just food and water but exercise, play, conversation, and companionship.

I want a person to adopt this animal who knows sometimes medical needs arise and it could cost you over a thousand dollars if the dog gets bloat, or some other serious thing..

I want a person who is willing to learn symptomology of illnesses that need to be caught early or animal can die if person just puts off going to vet cause "it is probably nothing or it will be well soon" without treatment it isn't likely.

I want to see my bird go home with someone who has bought the biggest cage they can fit in their house for this bird to have the most room in there possable, all the while they know whenever they are in the house (already bird proofed before they come get bird) bird will have a beautiful play gym and toys outside cage to hang out and be with humans with out bars.

I want my bird to go to a home who has the poisonous plant and food list for parrots front and center on the fridge door!!! with the 800 # of poison control for ASPCA and other important pet emergency #'s.

I doubt very much those looking for a free bird, dog, cat, rabbit whatever even think or bother to learn how long the species lives never mind make arrangement of who will take animal should the animal outlive them...

I think I could write a book on this subject, and maybe some day I will

but for now let me just say

if you want one of my little champs

it wont be free!

It wasn’t free for me to love it back to health and re-train it and un-phobia it...

I expect no less commitment from the person intending to keep it for the rest of its life!

Have another opinion on this , im sure you do. If you don’t agree free is not in best interest of pet, perhaps you never took one home you found on road after it was hit by several cars and no one bothered to even stop and see if anything could be done, nor watched it walk with 3 legs in casts and crying as you waited several times in vet's while they operated on its injuries.

Before you judge a person who has and continues to seek a new life for our poor creatures needing this wonderful loving care= see if you can do the work to help out one of these yourself from worse to getting it better and see how you would feel if a person had a fit when you told them there was a required re-homing fee!!!

do you think its a coincidence that the Lord chose the Holy spirit to be represented by a dove in parables?

-bunny, of ffc.


Tags: ADOPTION APPLICATION PART III, ARTICLE: FREE BIRDS/NOT FREE BIRDS.
aoljpictureUpload, aoljpictureUpload_1

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COMMON SOURCES OF LEAD EXPOSURE

for BIRDS and PARROTS

-lead can kill your bird, remove it immediately!


WEIGHTS - Curtain, Fishing Lures, Auto Wheel Balance Weights

TOYS- Free Standing Plastic Items with Internal Weights,

Bells and Lead Clappers

PAINTS-

Both Lead Based (Including Varnishes and Lacquers) and

Lead-Free Bases with Lead Drying Agents

STAINED GLASS-

Seams and Frames

CERAMICS-

Lead Based Type Glasses,

Seen Especially from 3rd World Countries


Origin (i.e.. Food Crocks)

SOLDER

BATTERIES

BULLETS


Tags: poisonous objects need removal from birds area


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Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Subject: about our adoption process, APPLICATION TO ADOPT
Time: 10:31:50 PM EDT
Author: featheredcastle


--------- Attention : we maintain a closed aviary----------

Under no circumstances are customers permitted

admittance to our Parrot rescue & aviary.

This is for the privacy of our family

and the prevention of disease introduction,

disturbance of our hens on eggs,

or the possibility of theft.

absolutely no exceptions.
------------------------------------------------

TRANSFER OF OWNERSHIP

We certify that one the _______day of ___________, 20____, that the ownership and Guardianship of the bird(s) mentioned on this application have been transferred from Feathered friends castle. to

____________________________________________________, in accordance with and in agreement with the provisions set forth on this Bird Adoption Application.

If you are too far to meet us in our area to adopt one of our parrots We ship Delta Pet First , If you are planning on coming to pick up your parrot we will meet you in the public place of OUR choice in the southern VT western ma area.

Please be aware that your deposit must be paid and clear prior to this appointment or in the case of bird being flown both deposit and full payment must be paid in full and cleared (usauly 2-3 weeks in advance of flight to be safe. no cleared payments, no birds. no exception. when birds are picked up balance must be cash only. please note we do not ship out of country. or HI or AK. We only accept United States Postal Money orders for payment as these are federal traceble payments and chance of fraud is very slim. western union or other types of payment will be sent back and not accepted. bird will not be held without united states postal money order. no exceptions. experience in the past has caused us to adopt these policies. they are not negotiable. dont ask. we work hard enough to help these birds then to get stuck for the fees. thank you.


--------------------------------------------------------

Under no circumstances are customers permitted

admittance to our rescue & aviary.

This is for the privacy and saftey of our family

the prevention of disease introduction,

disturbing of hens on eggs,

or possibility of crime/theft.

Sunday, November 25, 2007

How to surrender a boxer dog or parrot to Us for rehoming

WOL is a non-profit, No-Kill rescue for Birds (and now Boxers & small animals) in need. We have over 30 years of proffesional pet care experience . If you have a boxer or bird in need of a good home, that you can not keep please visit our website or contact me . We will place them in the home best suitable for his/her needs or we will keep it here and raise it properly until a good home comes available. 50% of our "clients" end up living with us forever and are provided the best possible love and care.

If a situation with a family member dictates you must part with your Pet boxer or parrot, or if you are moving to a place that wont let you keep them? If you develop illness, allergies... Hey this stuff happens. If you find yourself facing this kind of unbearable situation, please email us and talk to us about surrendering your pet to our tender care and let us carefully screen applicants who will adopt your beloved friend into their forever homes.

Tags: , ,

Thursday, November 1, 2007

forever home found 4 Parrotlet

THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST IN THIS WONDERFUL LIL'GAL!

she is no longer available for adoption, she was placed in a loving home.

let us know if you are interested in adopting from us, drop us an email and tell us what kind of bird you are hoping for...be sure to include your address and phone number so we can contact you should bird become available.

Parrotlet seeks forever home- aprox 8 months old female parrotlet, sweet quiet gal, enjoys ladder climbing, toys, sleeping in her fuzzy teepee, favorite foods include couscous, raspberries, orange slices (seeds removed), pretty bird & zupreeme fruit feed, millet from the health food store..."birdie girl" is used to a home with other birds, and 2 dogs.

She enjoys sitting in my cupped hands and getting petted, she is a great listener, and loves to chirp when happy and in the mornings after breakfast.

Interested in adopting Birdie Girl?

If you are a non smoker, over age 21, and live in a stable situation please contact us. Be sure you put parrotlet - adoption info in the subject line, include your full name, where you live, why you want a parrotlet , how many pets in the home, what kind of pets, do you have children in house? Ages? Who will be primary care giver of bird?

Feathered friends castle parrot rescue where the parrots come first.

those are what's left of the morning's fresh raspberries on her beak!

click here to Email us

Feathered Friends parrot & sm animal rescue

HOME PAGE

http://featheredfriendscastleread.blogspot.com/

Surrendering your Parrot

http://parrotsurrender.blogspot.com/

see and read about our adoptable parrots

http://adoptablebirds.blogspot.com/

click here to Email us

------------------------------------

http://www.internationalparrotletsociety.org/intro.html

Parrotlets – Petite Parrots in a Pint-Sized Package

"Parrotlets are the South American counterpart of the African Lovebirds, from which they may be distinguished by their inferior size and the absence of the sub-terminal band of tail markings." He continues, "As a race they are decidedly spiteful, and where several are confined together irascible individuals need to be carefully watched. They do not stand close confinement very well, for they are exceedingly active birds and swift on the wing."

A cousin of the Amazon, parrotlets are the smallest true parrots. They are amazingly intelligent and energetic, and their sometimes cocky personalities contradict their small size. They are the Yorkshire Terrier of the bird world, ready to take on anything, never for a moment doubting their own superiority.

There are 7 species in the Forpus genus of Parrotlets, ranging in size from 12 to 14.5cm in length. All are sexually dimorphic, meaning males and females can be distinguished visually, and they have a life span ofapproximately 20 years. (Various publishing state a wide range in life pspan years. Parrotlets have only been kept in captivity around 20 years so the life span in the wild cannot be compared to the life span for captive bred or kept.)

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  Pacific Parrotlet (Forpus coelestis)

Also known as Celestial Parrotlet or Lesson's Parrotlet

Distribution: Pacific side of Andes from West Ecuador to Northwestern Peru.

Length: 12-13 cm

Subspecies: F. c. lucida

Description: Forpus coelestis coelestis:: The male is green with cobalt blue flight feathers and a narrow blue streak that runs from the eyes to the back of the neck. The female lacks the blue under the wings, and has a lighter blue (mostly blue/green) streak running from the eyes towards the back of the neck, but is not the length or width of the male streak. Both have blue rumps, but the blue rump on the female is not as dark or defined as the male. Their eyes are dark brown, beak is flesh-pink, legs are pale pink, and the tail is very short.

Forpus coelestis lucida: The lucida Pacific parrotlet has most of the same characteristics and colors as the nominate (F.c. coelestis), except as noted: although mainly green, lucida males and females both have blue color on the underside of their wings and on their rump. The males' blue coloring on the rump is dark cobalt blue and the blue markings around the eye are darker than the female, which is similar to a male Pacific (nominate). Also, both male and female have a gray wash over the green coloring on the wings, and the male's underside also carries a grey wash.

Recommended Minimum Standards For Care of Parrotlets

http://www.internationalparrotletsociety.org/carestandards.html

q Feed your parrotlet a healthy, varied diet on a daily basis including pellets, vegetables, beans, grains, fruits, seeds and nuts.

q Clean water should always be available. Change water at least once daily.

q Learn what foods should be avoided such as salt, sugar, chocolate, avocados and alcohol.

q Secure the services of a veterinarian certified in or experienced with avian clients.

q A well-bird examination and annual check ups are highly recommended.

q Quarantine any new bird(s) coming into your home for at least 45 days if another bird(s) is already present.

q Have nails, beaks and flight feathers trimmed when needed.

q Keep your parrotlet away from smoke, toxic plants and fumes.

q Give your parrotlet exercise opportunities and time out of its cage daily.

q Never leave parrotlets unsupervised with children or other pets.

q Never take parrotlets outside unless they are in a cage. Even a parrotlet with clipped wings can still fly.

q When traveling with your bird in a car, always make surethe seatbelt is securely fastened around the cage.

q Provide a cage large enough to contain many toys and perches to allow your parrotlet ample room to exercise. A recommended MINIMUM is 18" wide x 18" deep x 24" high. Maximum bar spacing is 1/2".

q Provide enrichment items and rotate them on a regular basis to alleviate boredom. Also, check them often to make sure they are not damaged and are safe.

q Clean cage, perches and toys regularly and change cage papers daily. Food and water dishes should also be cleaned daily.

Taking Care of Your New Baby;By: Sandee L. Molenda

To make the adjustment easier for your little guy (and you), please try and use these simple tips for the next two weeks or so until he is fully adapted to his new surroundings. Remember that your bird is a baby and must learn many new things.

Food - Your parrotlet's normal diet should consist of chopped fruits, vegetables and greens, seeds (Volkman’s Parrotlet Super or small hook bill or cockatiel mix) or pellets (for cockatiels), rice, pasta, cooked legumes, root vegetables and grains, whole grain bread, sprouted seed and millet spray. If you change the diet, do it gradually!! The parrotlet may have not learned to associate different foods so be careful. Young parrotlets have been known to starve to death because their diet was switched too quickly and they did not eat the new food.

For the first week or so, place your bird's food on the bottom of the cage in a paper plate or on a paper towel. Provide seed and/or pellets in small, flat dishes on the bottom. Also, be sure to give them as much millet as they want especially the first week. Then, you can gradually reduce the amount to a spray a couple of times a week. After he is seen eating out of the dishes regularly, you can move the rest of his food to small, flat dishes and then to the regular dishes provided with the cage. Avoid dishes with hoods on them; many parrotlets will not stick their heads inside and can starve to death.

It is not unusual for baby parrotlets to consume large amounts of millet when they first go to a new home regardless of what they were fed at the breeder's aviary or pet shop. Going to a new environment is both stressful and overwhelming for a new baby although not always in a bad way. They have a new cage, new people, new environment, new toys, new climate, new everything. They may be very curious and inquisitive, and like a child in a candy store, may not eat a wide variety of foods especially fresh foods or event their normal seed/pellet mix. It is very normal and new parrotlet owners should always havelots of millet available when the baby comes home. Millet is a complex carbohydrate that also has protein and no fat. It is easily digested and provides quick energy for baby birds that need it to deal with the stress of the new situation. They should be allowed to eat as much as they want. Usually, after a week or so, they will start eating a greater variety although it make take several weeks or longer before they start eating fresh foods.

To encourage them to eat fresh foods, you should provide your parrotlet with thawed frozen peas and corn in a small dish with some seeds sprinkled on the top. Once the parrotlet starts playing and eating these foods, then you can start adding other fresh, more wholesome foods to the mix.

Parrotlets do not need grit. They hull (shell) their seed and grind their food with their beaks as do all parrots so there is not need for grit. Grit also has been known to cause impaction of the intestines so it should be avoided. They should be provided with a cuttlebone, for calcium, and a mineral block for needed trace minerals. The parrotlet will eat them as his nutritional needs dictate.

Handling – Your parrotlet should have been hand-fed since 10 to 14 days of age and socialized to a variety of household situations. However, unlike domesticated animals such as dogs and cat, parrotlets are aware prey animals that you are a stranger and they must learn that you are not going to hurt them. They also are in a completely foreign environment with a new home, new cage, new toys, new people, new food, etc., so they are very cautious and can be very nervous for the first few weeks. Your parrotlet should be taken out daily and held over a couch or bed and allowed to jump off. This is how you should work with your parrotlet on teaching "Step Ups" and ‘ladders’. Let him jump off, pick him up, place him back on your finger and start over again. Praise and talk softly to the parrotlet while perched on your finger. Do this whenever you first take the bird out. After a few minutes, the parrotlet will stop jumping off. After a few days or so, they should be completely comfortable with you and should no longer jump off or try and get away.

Stress - Remember your bird is a baby and he needs rest. When you first bring him home, put him in his cage and let him get used tothe new environment. If the bird was shipped or had to travel a distance from the breeder,leave him in the cage the first day. On the second day, you can open the door and take him out for playtime. After about an hour, return him to his cage. He can then come out a few more times during the day. Do not continually play with him for hour after hour while he is very young. As he gets older, gradually his out of cage time can increase.

Your baby is used to cuddling up against his siblings at night. Make sure his cage is placed in a warm area and cover him at night. Do not expose him to drafts. If your baby appears lethargic, quiet, weak, cold or is unable to perch, immediately place the bird's cage on a heating pad or under a light covered with a towel. Try and warm him upto 85̊- 88̊ and get him to an avian veterinarian. Many times heat will work wonders and in a few hours they are up and running around. Sometimes, the stress of the new home, et cetera, can be a little much.

Toys and Playpens - Parrotlets love to play and should be given a lot of toys. Things that move such as swings and hanging toys are favorites. They also like things made from natural materials such as wood, leather and raw hide. Small items such as beads and bells are especially relished and played with for hours on end. Parrotlets can be taught to stay on playpens and baskets. This will allow your pet more freedom as well as more time with you as he is more mobile and easy to move around.

Water - Provide both a glass tube or ball waterer (for rodents) AND a small dish on the bottom of the cage. After you see him drinking from the tube regularly, you can remove the small dish.

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what is left of her raspberries and broccoli sprouts? not much! LOL...

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Monday, October 15, 2007

forever home found 4 adopt orange wing amazons thanks to all who wrote. parotlette now availa

forever home found 11-2-07 Orange wing amazons (proven pair, must stay together) thanks to all who sent in emails and applications on this pair.

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this pair is in excellent health and feather, proven breeding pair, parented many clutches together. They will add to your family and provide many nice babies for you. These are very calm parrots, fair talkers, very smart and enjoy taking hand fed small treats daily. Exceptionally Quiet Pair!!! VERY CALM bonded to each other, no fussing or stressing when I enter cage to move toys or clean.

Quite the Lady and Gentleman.. Very healthy birds, no feather plucking or illness ever, They will be needing medium-large size cage with lots of toys. They are used to out of cage time daily when im not breeding them, Enjoy snacking from my dinner plate, and sitting on their jungle gym on top of their cage. THEY have been laying for us up to three eggs:- three times a year. BE SURE if you are interested in any of our birds that you include info on your bird experience and current Birds and pets in house . NON smoking households prefered, birds are very sensitive to inhailants. Persons Over 23 yrs of age prefered and your full name and address and a phone number required also so we can reach you to discuss adoption. thanks. click here to Email us

about orange wing amazons: Scientific Name -Amazona amazonica , Distribution -Northern - Central South America , Description -Weight: 350-600 gm Size: Approximately 12 inches in length., Distinct Markings: Overall green with black edging on back of neck. Cheeks and front of crown yellow, ear coverts green, violet to blue above eye. Wings green, tipped with blue, orange patch on secondaries. Tail green tipped with yellow, underside green, red and yellow. Eye ring pale grey, beak is bone and black, feet are grey.

Amazons are short heavy bodied, stocky birds. Most species are predominately green with red, yellow, blue, white or orange markings. Amazons are well known for their ability to mimic and also to use the words and phrases they have learned appropriately.

Behavior/Aviculture - Amazons are very intelligent and lively, sometimes hyperactive birds. Young hand-raised amazons adapt readily to their new surroundings are can usually be handled by anyone. Mature amazons tend to form strong bonds to a single person, often adopting that person as their "mate" and showing aggressive behavior towards others.

Amazons are playful and love to chew. They enjoy time spent with their owners and quickly learn to talk. They should always be provided with toys, especially wooden blocks which can be chewed, and branches from nontoxic trees. In order to ensure safety companion amazons should not be allowed unsupervised freedom in the home as they often encounter toxins or dangerous items. Young amazons should be socialized to many people and exposed to a variety of situations such as new cages, toys, visits to the veterinarian, handling by friends and wing and nail clippings to avoid fear of novel situations.

Routine bathing or showering is vital to maintaining good plumage and skin condition. Birds can be misted and allowed to dry in a warm room or in the sun, or dried with a blow drier. Care should be taken not to clip the wing feathers excessively as amazons may fall and injure themselves. Clip only enough so the bird will glide to the floor.

All companion and breeding birds should be individually identified to assist in recovery if lost and assist in maintenance of medical and genealogical records. Many breeders apply closed leg bands when chicks are young. While they present a slight risk of entrapment closed bands are preferable to no identification, especially for breeding birds. Microchips which can be implanted into the muscle or under the skin are a reliable means of identification but require electronic readers to verify identification. Tattoos may be used but often fade or become illegible with time. Foot prints may have some application in identification.

Amazons are active birds and should be allowed as much space as possible. The cage should have at least perches that the bird can move between. Appropriate, safe toys should be provided.

Life Span: 20-60 years. Age at maturity: 2-5 years.

Diet - Amazons should be fed a formulated (pelleted or extruded diet) as a basis for good nutrition. The diet should be supplemented with fresh fruits and vegetables daily to add variety and psychological enrichment. Treats maybe given in small amounts especially as rewards for good behavior.

Due to a tendency to become obese in captivity, amazons should be fed restricted calorie diets (low fat). During the non-breeding season Fresh clean water must be provided every day. Vitamin supplements are not needed for birds which are eating a formulated diet. Pretty Bird manufactures special low fat diets which are appropriate for most amazons. For Conversion see our brochure on; Converting your seed eating bird to a formulated diet.

Breeding Information - Most amazons breed in the spring and typically produce a single clutch of 2 to 5 eggs. If the first clutch is removed from the nest they will often lay a second clutch. While some pairs will breed at other time of the year, the breeding season for amazons is typically very limited.

Nest Box - Most amazons breed well in a vertical boxes, the size being dependent upon species but typically 18" x 18" x 24 -30". Due to a tendency for obesity in captivity Amazons should be allowed space to fly. Mate aggression is a problem with some species.

Most species show no obvious sexual dimorphism (visual difference between the species) therefore endoscopic examination or laboratory sexing techniques are needed for accurate sex determination. Males tend to be larger with larger heads than females.


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Friday, October 12, 2007

training tips, recipies 4 birds, details on page contents

 

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introduction: who we are, what we do, why we do it.

photo gallery of our feathered friends.

quiz- are you realy ready for a pet parrot?

Article: How to Trim a Bird's Wing Feathers

              Training you to train your bird - the UP command

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phobic birds part I & II,

winning your bird's trust

General bird Care

So you want a parrot as a pet????


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Tips for Training, Taming and Teaching!

Following are some of our thoughts on birds and the best ways to teach and train them. Please remember that not all birds are alike, just like humans, so what works well with one bird may not work as well with another.

1. Believe it or not, one of the worst places that you can allow your bird to "hang out" too much is on your shoulder. Due to the fact that, in the wild, a bird enforces its dominance by being above everyone else, this allows the bird to think that it is the boss. Keeping it below eye level is best to help it learn that you are the dominant member of the relationship. Be sure that it spends some, if not most, of its time spent on you lower than your shoulders.

2. While you may be inclined to use gloves in handling your bird, this is actually not something that will help your relationship. Gloves have a tendency to scare many birds. Due to the fact that our birds are hand-fed, you should not need to use any form of protection. If this is not the case with your bird, for whatever reason, a perch or a towel is better for training.

3. Always be sure that your birds wings are clipped. This is very important for your bird’s safety. You don’t want him to get out when a door is opened, nor do you want him flying into a window or uncovered mirror. In addition, allowing him to fly freely, even inside the house, may allow him to begin to think that he is the "flock leader," thereby thinking that he is dominant over you.

4. Birds have hollow bones and can be injured very easily. It is very important to remember to NEVER hit your bird. This is not a way to train your birdand will bring about more negative results than positive! This will only teach them to be afraid of you, which may result in them biting you. Remember that your bird may be able to speak to you, but he is not human and cannot think like you. He doesn’t know what makes you angry.

5. When your bird is behaving badly (like biting or screaming), your best approach is to treat it like you might a small child. Start by saying, (firmly, but not screaming) "No!" and redirecting its attention. If the bad behavior continues, that is when you can use a "time-out." Birds, being very social, will respond to this, when it is used properly. Put the bird back into his cage properly and cover it for a short period of time (but never more than fifteen minutes or so). The bird should soon learn that negative behavior will only have him removed from social activity, with no further attention.

6. Don’t forget to use positive reinforcement! When you bird is behaving well, take it out of the cage and give it a good scratch (if it likes that kind of thing). Again, like you might treat a child, positive reinforcement works well!

7. In light of the above note, DON’T accidentally reward negative behavior. For example, if your bird is in the cage screaming, removing it from the cage at that time will only teach him that screaming is his way out. This will cause him to scream more. In addition to that, many birds actually are amused by seeing us get worked up. If you scream at your bird to be quiet when he is screaming, you are only showing him that he can get this kind of attention from you by acting this way. It will not help him learn to be quiet! Always remember to make sure that your bird is not screaming because he needs food or water before you try to "fix" this behavior though!

8. Again, like children, birds have the ability to sense our emotions. If you handle your bird while you are upset or uptight, you may notice that he doesn’t respond well to you. He may even be afraid of you. For this reason, it is best not to take them out at this time, waiting until you are more relaxed and have calmed down.

9. The "up" command is a very useful tool when handling your bird. Place your finger against the birds belly and use very gentle pressureto encourage him to step up onto your finger. While he does, you can say the word "up" and he should learn to associate the word with the action. You can also do this when placing him back into his cage, using the perch against his belly. Always remember to use GENTLE pressure. This will also come in handy if you need to correct your bird’s behavior and should be the way you put him back into his cage – the correct way to put him in.

10. Again, just like a small child or any other animal that we train, birds do not learn things overnight. Patience is needed on your end, as well as persistence, but you will, most likely, be rewarded in the end. This applies to both training your bird to behave well, but also for the birds that are being trained to speak or whistle. Patience and persistence are the keys. After a time, you will have a wonderful companion!

                                                                                                   

  Parrot Rescue Located in private home in southern vermont. caregiver is retired vet tech who is devoted to rehabing birds to health and wellness in loving environment. Aviary is closed to public for disease prevention and family privacy

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                                                   Recipes

Birdie Bread

I developed this for my flock. I hate how crumbly those other breads that people "created" because they are based on a basic corn bread recipe.

My birds like to hold their food, and a crumbly corn bread does not cut it with them. More ended up on the bottom of the cage than in their beaks. -

1 C. Wheat Flour

½ C. Corn Meal

½ C. Bread Flour

1/3 C. Flax seed ground

1/3 C. Amaranth

1/3 C. Quinoa

1/3 C. Oat Groats

2 tsp Sea Salt

1 C Nut Butter

½ C. Red Palm Oil

½ C. unsweetened Applesauce

4 Egg Whites

1 ½ C. finely cut fruits or veggies

Spices as desired

Notes: 1) Use fruits and vegetables that will compliment each other.

Only use about 3-4 different ingredients.

2) Many spices are very beneficial to our bird’s health. Garlic helps kill bad bacteria and ginger helps upset stomachs.

Make sure to match the spices to the fruits and veggies used. If you use hot peppers don’t use sweet spices like sage,

cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg. And if you use sweet fruits like bananas or cantaloupe then you don’t want to use bitter spices like oregano, rosemary, or thyme.

3) Try to get most of these items in the natural grocer, look for organic, and check ingredients,

you don't want ingredients that are full of preservatives, salt, or sugar. 4) The nut butters should be non-hydrogenated.

Instructions:

Cream butter and flours in mixer till well blended. This will make a very crumbly dry mix. Add egg whites, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar and blend well.

This will make a very thick dough. Save the egg shells; put them in a microwave safe dish and microwave for 1 minute, then add them to the batter. Add remaining ingredients.

Line a 9x6-baking pan with tin foil. Spray very lightly with cooking spray (spray outside so that the fumes don't harm your birds). Pour batter into pan. Bake at 425 for 40 minutes.

Remove from oven, and turn over on wire rack to cool. Remove tin foil and cut into ½ " squares.

When cool place squares in airtight container or zip lock bag and freeze.

Defrost bread on an as need basis in the microwave for about 30 seconds and then serve to your birds.

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Oatmeal Apple muffins

1 C Whole Wheat Flour

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp nutmeg

1 1/2 tsp stevia extract powder

1/2 C milk

1/4 C raisins (I'd substitute grated carrots)

1 C rolled oats

3 tsp baking powder (non aluminum)

2 tsp cinnamon

1 egg

1/4 C oil or 1/4 C applesauce

Preheat oven to 400, mix first seven ingredients thoroughly.

Mix remaining ingredients in separate bowl, gradually mix dry into moist ingredients.

Spoon into greased muffin tins, bake 15 to 20 min.

Treat Sticks

Preheat oven to 300 degrees and place a foil lined cookie sheet inside it.

1 cup mixed seed/pellets

1 tsp. honey (I used corn syrup, worked just as good. KG)

2 tsp. smooth peanut butter

1 egg

1 tsp. unflavored gelatin (knox)

Put honey, egg, and peanut butter in a bowl and mix very well.

A wire whisk works best. WHILE STIRRING (important, otherwise you will have lumps) sprinkle gelatin over the mix.

Stir well again. Add the seed/pellets to the mix and stir to coat. Let the mixture set up for a minute or so,

then pack into the wooden spoons or around a stickit takes some patience to get it to stick to the stick but it will work.

Put them in the oven as you make them. If you use large eggs you can put in a little more seeds.

Measurements do not have to be exact.

Experiment with the seed mixture; add chopped dried fruits, vegetables, nuts,

chili peppers, or bits of cuttle bone without the shell. Bake for about 45 minutes they will just be a little brown. Enjoy

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High Protein Mix

1 hardboiled egg...take the shell off.

1 Tbsp handfeeding formula

1 Tbsp Universal food (or bread crumbs, etc)

Put the above in a Lil' Oskar type of chopper. Chop. The product will be a fluffy but drier egg stuff. It keeps better than just "eggs."

You can give microwaved shells as well for added calcium.

                                           Birdie Cookies

1 1/2 cups mashed banana

3 cups oats

1/4 cup applesauce

3 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 cup chopped almonds or walnuts

Combine all ingredients and stir thoroughly. Drop by small spoonfuls onto an un-greased cookie sheet. Press until very flat with back of a spoon.

Bake at 350F for fifteen minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Store in airtight container or freeze. Freezing is a good option if you don't have very many fids, so they can stay fresh.

Options:

There are several options you could add to this. When I made them I added pureed sweet potatoes to the banana picture to make 1 1/2 cups.

The sweet potato doesn't have to be pureed; it can just be cooked and mashed with the banana. I also didn't have any applesauce

so I peeled an apple and put it in my Vitamix and made some chucky applesauce.

happy eating!