How to surrender a boxer dog or parrot to Us for rehoming

WOL is a non-profit, No-Kill rescue for Birds (and now Boxers & small animals) in need. We have over 30 years of proffesional pet care experience . If you have a boxer or bird in need of a good home, that you can not keep please visit our website or contact me . We will place them in the home best suitable for his/her needs or we will keep it here and raise it properly until a good home comes available. 50% of our "clients" end up living with us forever and are provided the best possible love and care.

If a situation with a family member dictates you must part with your Pet boxer or parrot, or if you are moving to a place that wont let you keep them? If you develop illness, allergies... Hey this stuff happens. If you find yourself facing this kind of unbearable situation, please email us and talk to us about surrendering your pet to our tender care and let us carefully screen applicants who will adopt your beloved friend into their forever homes.

Tags: bird placement, parrot adoption, rehoming thru bird rescue

forever home found 4 Parrotlet

THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST IN THIS WONDERFUL LIL'GAL!

she is no longer available for adoption, she was placed in a loving home.

let us know if you are interested in adopting from us, drop us an email and tell us what kind of bird you are hoping for...be sure to include your address and phone number so we can contact you should bird become available.

Parrotlet seeks forever home- aprox 8 months old female parrotlet, sweet quiet gal, enjoys ladder climbing, toys, sleeping in her fuzzy teepee, favorite foods include couscous, raspberries, orange slices (seeds removed), pretty bird & zupreeme fruit feed, millet from the health food store..."birdie girl" is used to a home with other birds, and 2 dogs.

She enjoys sitting in my cupped hands and getting petted, she is a great listener, and loves to chirp when happy and in the mornings after breakfast.

Interested in adopting Birdie Girl?

If you are a non smoker, over age 21, and live in a stable situation please contact us. Be sure you put parrotlet - adoption info in the subject line, include your full name, where you live, why you want a parrotlet , how many pets in the home, what kind of pets, do you have children in house? Ages? Who will be primary care giver of bird?

Feathered friends castle parrot rescue where the parrots come first.

those are what's left of the morning's fresh raspberries on her beak!

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Feathered Friends parrot & sm animal rescue

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http://www.internationalparrotletsociety.org/intro.html

Parrotlets – Petite Parrots in a Pint-Sized Package

"Parrotlets are the South American counterpart of the African Lovebirds, from which they may be distinguished by their inferior size and the absence of the sub-terminal band of tail markings." He continues, "As a race they are decidedly spiteful, and where several are confined together irascible individuals need to be carefully watched. They do not stand close confinement very well, for they are exceedingly active birds and swift on the wing."

A cousin of the Amazon, parrotlets are the smallest true parrots. They are amazingly intelligent and energetic, and their sometimes cocky personalities contradict their small size. They are the Yorkshire Terrier of the bird world, ready to take on anything, never for a moment doubting their own superiority.

There are 7 species in the Forpus genus of Parrotlets, ranging in size from 12 to 14.5cm in length. All are sexually dimorphic, meaning males and females can be distinguished visually, and they have a life span ofapproximately 20 years. (Various publishing state a wide range in life pspan years. Parrotlets have only been kept in captivity around 20 years so the life span in the wild cannot be compared to the life span for captive bred or kept.)

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  Pacific Parrotlet (Forpus coelestis)

Also known as Celestial Parrotlet or Lesson's Parrotlet

Distribution: Pacific side of Andes from West Ecuador to Northwestern Peru.

Length: 12-13 cm

Subspecies: F. c. lucida

Description: Forpus coelestis coelestis:: The male is green with cobalt blue flight feathers and a narrow blue streak that runs from the eyes to the back of the neck. The female lacks the blue under the wings, and has a lighter blue (mostly blue/green) streak running from the eyes towards the back of the neck, but is not the length or width of the male streak. Both have blue rumps, but the blue rump on the female is not as dark or defined as the male. Their eyes are dark brown, beak is flesh-pink, legs are pale pink, and the tail is very short.

Forpus coelestis lucida: The lucida Pacific parrotlet has most of the same characteristics and colors as the nominate (F.c. coelestis), except as noted: although mainly green, lucida males and females both have blue color on the underside of their wings and on their rump. The males' blue coloring on the rump is dark cobalt blue and the blue markings around the eye are darker than the female, which is similar to a male Pacific (nominate). Also, both male and female have a gray wash over the green coloring on the wings, and the male's underside also carries a grey wash.

Recommended Minimum Standards For Care of Parrotlets

http://www.internationalparrotletsociety.org/carestandards.html

q Feed your parrotlet a healthy, varied diet on a daily basis including pellets, vegetables, beans, grains, fruits, seeds and nuts.

q Clean water should always be available. Change water at least once daily.

q Learn what foods should be avoided such as salt, sugar, chocolate, avocados and alcohol.

q Secure the services of a veterinarian certified in or experienced with avian clients.

q A well-bird examination and annual check ups are highly recommended.

q Quarantine any new bird(s) coming into your home for at least 45 days if another bird(s) is already present.

q Have nails, beaks and flight feathers trimmed when needed.

q Keep your parrotlet away from smoke, toxic plants and fumes.

q Give your parrotlet exercise opportunities and time out of its cage daily.

q Never leave parrotlets unsupervised with children or other pets.

q Never take parrotlets outside unless they are in a cage. Even a parrotlet with clipped wings can still fly.

q When traveling with your bird in a car, always make surethe seatbelt is securely fastened around the cage.

q Provide a cage large enough to contain many toys and perches to allow your parrotlet ample room to exercise. A recommended MINIMUM is 18" wide x 18" deep x 24" high. Maximum bar spacing is 1/2".

q Provide enrichment items and rotate them on a regular basis to alleviate boredom. Also, check them often to make sure they are not damaged and are safe.

q Clean cage, perches and toys regularly and change cage papers daily. Food and water dishes should also be cleaned daily.

Taking Care of Your New Baby;By: Sandee L. Molenda

To make the adjustment easier for your little guy (and you), please try and use these simple tips for the next two weeks or so until he is fully adapted to his new surroundings. Remember that your bird is a baby and must learn many new things.

Food - Your parrotlet's normal diet should consist of chopped fruits, vegetables and greens, seeds (Volkman’s Parrotlet Super or small hook bill or cockatiel mix) or pellets (for cockatiels), rice, pasta, cooked legumes, root vegetables and grains, whole grain bread, sprouted seed and millet spray. If you change the diet, do it gradually!! The parrotlet may have not learned to associate different foods so be careful. Young parrotlets have been known to starve to death because their diet was switched too quickly and they did not eat the new food.

For the first week or so, place your bird's food on the bottom of the cage in a paper plate or on a paper towel. Provide seed and/or pellets in small, flat dishes on the bottom. Also, be sure to give them as much millet as they want especially the first week. Then, you can gradually reduce the amount to a spray a couple of times a week. After he is seen eating out of the dishes regularly, you can move the rest of his food to small, flat dishes and then to the regular dishes provided with the cage. Avoid dishes with hoods on them; many parrotlets will not stick their heads inside and can starve to death.

It is not unusual for baby parrotlets to consume large amounts of millet when they first go to a new home regardless of what they were fed at the breeder's aviary or pet shop. Going to a new environment is both stressful and overwhelming for a new baby although not always in a bad way. They have a new cage, new people, new environment, new toys, new climate, new everything. They may be very curious and inquisitive, and like a child in a candy store, may not eat a wide variety of foods especially fresh foods or event their normal seed/pellet mix. It is very normal and new parrotlet owners should always havelots of millet available when the baby comes home. Millet is a complex carbohydrate that also has protein and no fat. It is easily digested and provides quick energy for baby birds that need it to deal with the stress of the new situation. They should be allowed to eat as much as they want. Usually, after a week or so, they will start eating a greater variety although it make take several weeks or longer before they start eating fresh foods.

To encourage them to eat fresh foods, you should provide your parrotlet with thawed frozen peas and corn in a small dish with some seeds sprinkled on the top. Once the parrotlet starts playing and eating these foods, then you can start adding other fresh, more wholesome foods to the mix.

Parrotlets do not need grit. They hull (shell) their seed and grind their food with their beaks as do all parrots so there is not need for grit. Grit also has been known to cause impaction of the intestines so it should be avoided. They should be provided with a cuttlebone, for calcium, and a mineral block for needed trace minerals. The parrotlet will eat them as his nutritional needs dictate.

Handling – Your parrotlet should have been hand-fed since 10 to 14 days of age and socialized to a variety of household situations. However, unlike domesticated animals such as dogs and cat, parrotlets are aware prey animals that you are a stranger and they must learn that you are not going to hurt them. They also are in a completely foreign environment with a new home, new cage, new toys, new people, new food, etc., so they are very cautious and can be very nervous for the first few weeks. Your parrotlet should be taken out daily and held over a couch or bed and allowed to jump off. This is how you should work with your parrotlet on teaching "Step Ups" and ‘ladders’. Let him jump off, pick him up, place him back on your finger and start over again. Praise and talk softly to the parrotlet while perched on your finger. Do this whenever you first take the bird out. After a few minutes, the parrotlet will stop jumping off. After a few days or so, they should be completely comfortable with you and should no longer jump off or try and get away.

Stress - Remember your bird is a baby and he needs rest. When you first bring him home, put him in his cage and let him get used tothe new environment. If the bird was shipped or had to travel a distance from the breeder,leave him in the cage the first day. On the second day, you can open the door and take him out for playtime. After about an hour, return him to his cage. He can then come out a few more times during the day. Do not continually play with him for hour after hour while he is very young. As he gets older, gradually his out of cage time can increase.

Your baby is used to cuddling up against his siblings at night. Make sure his cage is placed in a warm area and cover him at night. Do not expose him to drafts. If your baby appears lethargic, quiet, weak, cold or is unable to perch, immediately place the bird's cage on a heating pad or under a light covered with a towel. Try and warm him upto 85̊- 88̊ and get him to an avian veterinarian. Many times heat will work wonders and in a few hours they are up and running around. Sometimes, the stress of the new home, et cetera, can be a little much.

Toys and Playpens - Parrotlets love to play and should be given a lot of toys. Things that move such as swings and hanging toys are favorites. They also like things made from natural materials such as wood, leather and raw hide. Small items such as beads and bells are especially relished and played with for hours on end. Parrotlets can be taught to stay on playpens and baskets. This will allow your pet more freedom as well as more time with you as he is more mobile and easy to move around.

Water - Provide both a glass tube or ball waterer (for rodents) AND a small dish on the bottom of the cage. After you see him drinking from the tube regularly, you can remove the small dish.

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what is left of her raspberries and broccoli sprouts? not much! LOL...

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Tags: parot available for adoption, parrotlett care guide, new bird suggestions

forever home found 4 adopt orange wing amazons thanks to all who wrote. parotlette now availa

forever home found 11-2-07 Orange wing amazons (proven pair, must stay together) thanks to all who sent in emails and applications on this pair.

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this pair is in excellent health and feather, proven breeding pair, parented many clutches together. They will add to your family and provide many nice babies for you. These are very calm parrots, fair talkers, very smart and enjoy taking hand fed small treats daily. Exceptionally Quiet Pair!!! VERY CALM bonded to each other, no fussing or stressing when I enter cage to move toys or clean.

Quite the Lady and Gentleman.. Very healthy birds, no feather plucking or illness ever, They will be needing medium-large size cage with lots of toys. They are used to out of cage time daily when im not breeding them, Enjoy snacking from my dinner plate, and sitting on their jungle gym on top of their cage. THEY have been laying for us up to three eggs:- three times a year. BE SURE if you are interested in any of our birds that you include info on your bird experience and current Birds and pets in house . NON smoking households prefered, birds are very sensitive to inhailants. Persons Over 23 yrs of age prefered and your full name and address and a phone number required also so we can reach you to discuss adoption. thanks. click here to Email us

about orange wing amazons: Scientific Name -Amazona amazonica , Distribution -Northern - Central South America , Description -Weight: 350-600 gm Size: Approximately 12 inches in length., Distinct Markings: Overall green with black edging on back of neck. Cheeks and front of crown yellow, ear coverts green, violet to blue above eye. Wings green, tipped with blue, orange patch on secondaries. Tail green tipped with yellow, underside green, red and yellow. Eye ring pale grey, beak is bone and black, feet are grey.

Amazons are short heavy bodied, stocky birds. Most species are predominately green with red, yellow, blue, white or orange markings. Amazons are well known for their ability to mimic and also to use the words and phrases they have learned appropriately.

Behavior/Aviculture - Amazons are very intelligent and lively, sometimes hyperactive birds. Young hand-raised amazons adapt readily to their new surroundings are can usually be handled by anyone. Mature amazons tend to form strong bonds to a single person, often adopting that person as their "mate" and showing aggressive behavior towards others.

Amazons are playful and love to chew. They enjoy time spent with their owners and quickly learn to talk. They should always be provided with toys, especially wooden blocks which can be chewed, and branches from nontoxic trees. In order to ensure safety companion amazons should not be allowed unsupervised freedom in the home as they often encounter toxins or dangerous items. Young amazons should be socialized to many people and exposed to a variety of situations such as new cages, toys, visits to the veterinarian, handling by friends and wing and nail clippings to avoid fear of novel situations.

Routine bathing or showering is vital to maintaining good plumage and skin condition. Birds can be misted and allowed to dry in a warm room or in the sun, or dried with a blow drier. Care should be taken not to clip the wing feathers excessively as amazons may fall and injure themselves. Clip only enough so the bird will glide to the floor.

All companion and breeding birds should be individually identified to assist in recovery if lost and assist in maintenance of medical and genealogical records. Many breeders apply closed leg bands when chicks are young. While they present a slight risk of entrapment closed bands are preferable to no identification, especially for breeding birds. Microchips which can be implanted into the muscle or under the skin are a reliable means of identification but require electronic readers to verify identification. Tattoos may be used but often fade or become illegible with time. Foot prints may have some application in identification.

Amazons are active birds and should be allowed as much space as possible. The cage should have at least perches that the bird can move between. Appropriate, safe toys should be provided.

Life Span: 20-60 years. Age at maturity: 2-5 years.

Diet - Amazons should be fed a formulated (pelleted or extruded diet) as a basis for good nutrition. The diet should be supplemented with fresh fruits and vegetables daily to add variety and psychological enrichment. Treats maybe given in small amounts especially as rewards for good behavior.

Due to a tendency to become obese in captivity, amazons should be fed restricted calorie diets (low fat). During the non-breeding season Fresh clean water must be provided every day. Vitamin supplements are not needed for birds which are eating a formulated diet. Pretty Bird manufactures special low fat diets which are appropriate for most amazons. For Conversion see our brochure on; Converting your seed eating bird to a formulated diet.

Breeding Information - Most amazons breed in the spring and typically produce a single clutch of 2 to 5 eggs. If the first clutch is removed from the nest they will often lay a second clutch. While some pairs will breed at other time of the year, the breeding season for amazons is typically very limited.

Nest Box - Most amazons breed well in a vertical boxes, the size being dependent upon species but typically 18" x 18" x 24 -30". Due to a tendency for obesity in captivity Amazons should be allowed space to fly. Mate aggression is a problem with some species.

Most species show no obvious sexual dimorphism (visual difference between the species) therefore endoscopic examination or laboratory sexing techniques are needed for accurate sex determination. Males tend to be larger with larger heads than females.

Feathered Friends parrot & sm animal rescue
HOME PAGE
http://featheredfriendscastleread.blogspot.com/
Surrendering your Parrot
http://parrotsurrender.blogspot.com/
Want to adopt one of our parrots? see who we have
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Tags: adoption, birds, parrot, amazon, orange wing, for sale, breeder, pair

training tips, recipies 4 birds, details on page contents

 

http://journals.aol.com/eweporium/featheredfriends/

introduction: who we are, what we do, why we do it.

photo gallery of our feathered friends.

quiz- are you realy ready for a pet parrot?

Article: How to Trim a Bird's Wing Feathers

              Training you to train your bird - the UP command

http://journals.aol.com/featheredcastle/1

http://journals.aol.com/eweporium/featheredfriends/read

phobic birds part I & II,

winning your bird's trust

General bird Care

So you want a parrot as a pet????

http://www.aimpages.com/featheredcastle/profile.html

http://journals.aol.com/featheredcastle/adoptablebirds/

http://journals.aol.com/eweporium/featheredfriends/read

http://journals.aol.com/featheredcastle/1/

                                                                                

Tips for Training, Taming and Teaching!

Following are some of our thoughts on birds and the best ways to teach and train them. Please remember that not all birds are alike, just like humans, so what works well with one bird may not work as well with another.

1. Believe it or not, one of the worst places that you can allow your bird to "hang out" too much is on your shoulder. Due to the fact that, in the wild, a bird enforces its dominance by being above everyone else, this allows the bird to think that it is the boss. Keeping it below eye level is best to help it learn that you are the dominant member of the relationship. Be sure that it spends some, if not most, of its time spent on you lower than your shoulders.

2. While you may be inclined to use gloves in handling your bird, this is actually not something that will help your relationship. Gloves have a tendency to scare many birds. Due to the fact that our birds are hand-fed, you should not need to use any form of protection. If this is not the case with your bird, for whatever reason, a perch or a towel is better for training.

3. Always be sure that your birds wings are clipped. This is very important for your bird’s safety. You don’t want him to get out when a door is opened, nor do you want him flying into a window or uncovered mirror. In addition, allowing him to fly freely, even inside the house, may allow him to begin to think that he is the "flock leader," thereby thinking that he is dominant over you.

4. Birds have hollow bones and can be injured very easily. It is very important to remember to NEVER hit your bird. This is not a way to train your birdand will bring about more negative results than positive! This will only teach them to be afraid of you, which may result in them biting you. Remember that your bird may be able to speak to you, but he is not human and cannot think like you. He doesn’t know what makes you angry.

5. When your bird is behaving badly (like biting or screaming), your best approach is to treat it like you might a small child. Start by saying, (firmly, but not screaming) "No!" and redirecting its attention. If the bad behavior continues, that is when you can use a "time-out." Birds, being very social, will respond to this, when it is used properly. Put the bird back into his cage properly and cover it for a short period of time (but never more than fifteen minutes or so). The bird should soon learn that negative behavior will only have him removed from social activity, with no further attention.

6. Don’t forget to use positive reinforcement! When you bird is behaving well, take it out of the cage and give it a good scratch (if it likes that kind of thing). Again, like you might treat a child, positive reinforcement works well!

7. In light of the above note, DON’T accidentally reward negative behavior. For example, if your bird is in the cage screaming, removing it from the cage at that time will only teach him that screaming is his way out. This will cause him to scream more. In addition to that, many birds actually are amused by seeing us get worked up. If you scream at your bird to be quiet when he is screaming, you are only showing him that he can get this kind of attention from you by acting this way. It will not help him learn to be quiet! Always remember to make sure that your bird is not screaming because he needs food or water before you try to "fix" this behavior though!

8. Again, like children, birds have the ability to sense our emotions. If you handle your bird while you are upset or uptight, you may notice that he doesn’t respond well to you. He may even be afraid of you. For this reason, it is best not to take them out at this time, waiting until you are more relaxed and have calmed down.

9. The "up" command is a very useful tool when handling your bird. Place your finger against the birds belly and use very gentle pressureto encourage him to step up onto your finger. While he does, you can say the word "up" and he should learn to associate the word with the action. You can also do this when placing him back into his cage, using the perch against his belly. Always remember to use GENTLE pressure. This will also come in handy if you need to correct your bird’s behavior and should be the way you put him back into his cage – the correct way to put him in.

10. Again, just like a small child or any other animal that we train, birds do not learn things overnight. Patience is needed on your end, as well as persistence, but you will, most likely, be rewarded in the end. This applies to both training your bird to behave well, but also for the birds that are being trained to speak or whistle. Patience and persistence are the keys. After a time, you will have a wonderful companion!

                                                                                                   

  Parrot Rescue Located in private home in southern vermont. caregiver is retired vet tech who is devoted to rehabing birds to health and wellness in loving environment. Aviary is closed to public for disease prevention and family privacy

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                                                   Recipes

Birdie Bread

I developed this for my flock. I hate how crumbly those other breads that people "created" because they are based on a basic corn bread recipe.

My birds like to hold their food, and a crumbly corn bread does not cut it with them. More ended up on the bottom of the cage than in their beaks. -

1 C. Wheat Flour

½ C. Corn Meal

½ C. Bread Flour

1/3 C. Flax seed ground

1/3 C. Amaranth

1/3 C. Quinoa

1/3 C. Oat Groats

2 tsp Sea Salt

1 C Nut Butter

½ C. Red Palm Oil

½ C. unsweetened Applesauce

4 Egg Whites

1 ½ C. finely cut fruits or veggies

Spices as desired

Notes: 1) Use fruits and vegetables that will compliment each other.

Only use about 3-4 different ingredients.

2) Many spices are very beneficial to our bird’s health. Garlic helps kill bad bacteria and ginger helps upset stomachs.

Make sure to match the spices to the fruits and veggies used. If you use hot peppers don’t use sweet spices like sage,

cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg. And if you use sweet fruits like bananas or cantaloupe then you don’t want to use bitter spices like oregano, rosemary, or thyme.

3) Try to get most of these items in the natural grocer, look for organic, and check ingredients,

you don't want ingredients that are full of preservatives, salt, or sugar. 4) The nut butters should be non-hydrogenated.

Instructions:

Cream butter and flours in mixer till well blended. This will make a very crumbly dry mix. Add egg whites, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar and blend well.

This will make a very thick dough. Save the egg shells; put them in a microwave safe dish and microwave for 1 minute, then add them to the batter. Add remaining ingredients.

Line a 9x6-baking pan with tin foil. Spray very lightly with cooking spray (spray outside so that the fumes don't harm your birds). Pour batter into pan. Bake at 425 for 40 minutes.

Remove from oven, and turn over on wire rack to cool. Remove tin foil and cut into ½ " squares.

When cool place squares in airtight container or zip lock bag and freeze.

Defrost bread on an as need basis in the microwave for about 30 seconds and then serve to your birds.

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Oatmeal Apple muffins

1 C Whole Wheat Flour

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp nutmeg

1 1/2 tsp stevia extract powder

1/2 C milk

1/4 C raisins (I'd substitute grated carrots)

1 C rolled oats

3 tsp baking powder (non aluminum)

2 tsp cinnamon

1 egg

1/4 C oil or 1/4 C applesauce

Preheat oven to 400, mix first seven ingredients thoroughly.

Mix remaining ingredients in separate bowl, gradually mix dry into moist ingredients.

Spoon into greased muffin tins, bake 15 to 20 min.

Treat Sticks

Preheat oven to 300 degrees and place a foil lined cookie sheet inside it.

1 cup mixed seed/pellets

1 tsp. honey (I used corn syrup, worked just as good. KG)

2 tsp. smooth peanut butter

1 egg

1 tsp. unflavored gelatin (knox)

Put honey, egg, and peanut butter in a bowl and mix very well.

A wire whisk works best. WHILE STIRRING (important, otherwise you will have lumps) sprinkle gelatin over the mix.

Stir well again. Add the seed/pellets to the mix and stir to coat. Let the mixture set up for a minute or so,

then pack into the wooden spoons or around a stickit takes some patience to get it to stick to the stick but it will work.

Put them in the oven as you make them. If you use large eggs you can put in a little more seeds.

Measurements do not have to be exact.

Experiment with the seed mixture; add chopped dried fruits, vegetables, nuts,

chili peppers, or bits of cuttle bone without the shell. Bake for about 45 minutes they will just be a little brown. Enjoy

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High Protein Mix

1 hardboiled egg...take the shell off.

1 Tbsp handfeeding formula

1 Tbsp Universal food (or bread crumbs, etc)

Put the above in a Lil' Oskar type of chopper. Chop. The product will be a fluffy but drier egg stuff. It keeps better than just "eggs."

You can give microwaved shells as well for added calcium.

                                           Birdie Cookies

1 1/2 cups mashed banana

3 cups oats

1/4 cup applesauce

3 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 cup chopped almonds or walnuts

Combine all ingredients and stir thoroughly. Drop by small spoonfuls onto an un-greased cookie sheet. Press until very flat with back of a spoon.

Bake at 350F for fifteen minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Store in airtight container or freeze. Freezing is a good option if you don't have very many fids, so they can stay fresh.

Options:

There are several options you could add to this. When I made them I added pureed sweet potatoes to the banana picture to make 1 1/2 cups.

The sweet potato doesn't have to be pureed; it can just be cooked and mashed with the banana. I also didn't have any applesauce

so I peeled an apple and put it in my Vitamix and made some chucky applesauce.

happy eating!